Tuesday, November 11, 2008

L'Auberge Carmel

I began my culinary vacation Wednesday night with dinner at a restaurant named L'Auberge Carmel.




The restaurant is part of a hotel that started back in 1929. The dining room is quite small and intimate, with about 10 tables. I was sitting beneath the lighting next to the painting on the left.




Table Setting

I chose chef Christophe Grosjean's tasting menu with a request: a separate dessert tasting menu by pastry chef Ron Mendoza (formerly of Sona and French Laundry). Even though I met Ron previously, I never tasted his pastry creations. Here is my opportunity.




Gougeres ; Endives & Radishes with Olive Tapenade ; Bread Service




Amuse Bouche ; Cucumber & Sea Urchin


The presentation of the sea urchin is very eye-appealing, ehh?



Little Gem & Red Abalone ; Truffle & Eggs


One can't get enough of that delicious abalone with the beautiful chanterelles.
And the truffle & eggs course! With the wine pairing, that was my favorite dish of the evening.



Butternut Squash & Duck ; Carrots & Natural Beef


You can't go wrong with adding a piece of sauteed foie gras to the duck (or was it squab?).
The beef with oxtail and bone marrow foam ended the savory chapter of the dinner very well.



Wines served ... by the glass, mind you





Cheese Course (Bleu de Bocage, Tomme Brulee, Fourme d'Ambert (Roquefort), Epoisse) ;
Tea Service (Fresh Mint)

The selected cheeses were quite familiar to me. Nevertheless, they were very good to this rat.
Not among the tea selections in the box, the mention of fresh mint really appealed to me that evening.



Coconut & Passion Fruit ; Apples & Caramel ; Milk Chocolate & Shiso Sorbet


The acidity from the added lemongrass soy and the passion fruit counteracted the sweetness of the coconut.

The apples & caramel dessert was my favorite. Definitely appropriate for the autumn season.

Using milk chocolate instead of dark is fine. I'll try not to be aristocratic about it. And the shiso sorbet is a nice change from the ubiquitous yuzu.




Persimmon & Chocolate ; Mignardises


Warm chocolate mousse with cardamom ice cream and persimmon makes a fitting conclusion to this wonderful tasting menu.


I got to meet chef Christophe Grosjean and pastry chef Ron Mendoza. I toured the kitchen which looked similiar to one from another restaurant I frequent. The meal was wonderfully delicious. The desserts, overall, were quite good. They had variety while reflecting the proper seasonality. The decor was small and intimate. I was treated very well. Admittedly, I was pondering whether L'Auberge Carmel would get a Michelin star in the near future. Regardless, I wouldn't mind coming back and dining at this restaurant again.



L’Auberge Carmel

Monte Verde at Seventh

Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93921

(831) 624-8578




Saturday, October 4, 2008

Vegas Uncork’d: Dinner Gala




While the guests were registering their presence, getting their assigned table and mingling about, drinks and hors-d’oeuvres were being served.



Local food critic (and lawyer) John Curtas emceed the event.



I was assigned a number to one of the dining tables at the gala.




Before each course was served, the chef gave a cooking demonstration of the dish, which kept the interest level high.



hot & cold blue fin toro, yuzu “au poivre”, asian greens

2007 pazo san mauro albarino, rias baixas, spain

michael mina



alaskan king crab, morel velouté, sweet peas spuma, spring pea tendrils

2005 selbach oster riesling kabinett, mosel, germany

todd english



roasted côtelette of quail, ragoût of green lentils du puy, lavender mustard, aged balsamic vinegar

2004 finca monasterio rioja, spain

julian serrano



beef tenderloin, grilled foie gras dumplings, miso-mustard butter

2005 gramercy cellars syrah, walla walla valley, washington

jean-georges vongerichten



sweet taste of bellagio

2002 château de fargues, sauternes, france

jean philippe maury


An adjacent room opened up and all sorts of desserts were waiting to be eaten. Talk about kids in a candy shop!









Although the Bon Appetit conference ended on Saturday night for me with that dinner gala, my vacation continued on into Sunday and Monday. At this point, a time to pause and ponder over what transpired those past three days in the merry month of May 2008 at Caesar’s, Bellagio, Wynn, et al.